Nirmal Purja, Legendary Mountaineer, Dies in Pakistan Avalanche
The British-Nepali climber who conquered all 14 eight-thousanders in a single season and led the first winter ascent of K2 was among 10 killed on Broad Peak.
The 60-second version
Nirmal Purja, the record-breaking British-Nepali mountaineer who climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 189 days and led the first winter ascent of K2, was killed in an avalanche on Broad Peak alongside nine other climbers.
Key points
- Purja, 42, was leading a multinational expedition on Broad Peak (8,047m) in Pakistan's Karakoram range when an avalanche struck on July 30, killing all ten climbers.
- He rose to global fame in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world's mountains over 8,000m in 189 days — a record that shattered the previous best by over seven years.
- In January 2021, he led the historic first winter ascent of K2, widely considered the most dangerous mountain on Earth.
- A former Gurkha who served 16 years in the British military, including a decade in special forces, Purja was awarded an MBE in 2018 and was the subject of the Netflix documentary '14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.'
- Three bodies have been recovered so far; rescue efforts continue. Tributes have been paid by Nepal's Prime Minister, the Prince of Wales, and the UK Defence Secretary.
Verdict. Nirmal Purja was one of the greatest mountaineers of his generation — a man who redefined what was thought possible in the high mountains. His death on Broad Peak, in pursuit of another unprecedented goal, closes a life defined by ambition, courage, and a relentless belief that nothing is impossible.
The incidentAvalanche on Broad Peak
On Thursday, July 30, 2026, an avalanche struck a multinational climbing expedition on Broad Peak in the Karakoram range of northern Pakistan. The slide caught ten climbers, including the expedition leader, the renowned British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja.
Elite Expeditions, the company founded by Purja, confirmed his death days later in a statement that expressed 'profound sadness and immense heartbreak.' His older brother, Kamal Purja, wrote: 'It is with the heaviest heart that I share the devastating news that my beloved younger brother, Nirmal "Nimsdai" Purja, and the other climbers are no longer with us.'
As of this writing, the bodies of three climbers have been recovered — American Mallory Geis, Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy of Oman, and Pur Bahadur Gurung of Nepal. Rescue teams continue to search for the remaining seven, though officials from the Alpine Club of Pakistan have stated that they are feared dead.
The manA life of records
Nirmal Purja was born in Nepal and joined the British Army's Gurkha brigade, serving for 16 years, ten of which were spent in the special forces. He was the first Gurkha to summit Mount Everest while serving in the British military. In 2018, he was awarded an MBE by Queen Elizabeth II for his services to mountaineering.
Purja's defining achievement came in 2019, when he completed Project Possible — climbing all 14 of the world's mountains above 8,000 meters in just 189 days. The previous record had been more than seven years. The feat was chronicled in the 2021 Netflix documentary *14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible*, which introduced Purja to a global audience and made him one of the most recognisable mountaineers of his generation.
In January 2021, he led the first-ever winter ascent of K2, the world's second-highest mountain and widely considered the most dangerous. The expedition was a landmark in mountaineering history, an achievement that had eluded the world's strongest climbing teams for decades.
The final climbWhat he was doing on Broad Peak
Purja had not originally planned to climb Broad Peak. In his final post on X, published on Monday before the avalanche, he explained that his original objective was Gasherbrum II, another Karakoram giant. But he realized that if he also summited Broad Peak, he would be one mountain away from becoming the first person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice without supplemental oxygen.
'Opportunities don't scream: they whisper to those already working in silence.' — Nirmal Purja, final social media post
Broad Peak, at 8,047 meters, is the world's 12th-highest mountain. First climbed in 1957 by an Austrian expedition, it has claimed dozens of lives since. The 2013 season was one of its deadliest, with at least six fatalities.
The aftermathReaction and legacy
Nepal's Prime Minister Balendra Shah said the death of six Nepalese and four foreign climbers 'has shocked us,' adding that 'the history of their courage, dedication, and contributions will always remain inspiring.'
The Prince of Wales said he was 'truly saddened to hear of the tragic death' of Purja, who he said 'served with distinction' as a soldier before 'becoming one of the greatest mountaineers.' UK Defence Secretary Wes Streeting wrote on X: 'He was an inspirational man who served in our Armed Forces for many years — and whose incredible mountaineering adventures are known the world over.'
Purja is survived by his wife and three-year-old daughter, who live in Hampshire, southern England. His brother's tribute concluded: 'Your legacy will live forever.'
Primary sourcesBBC News·The New York Times